Ioulida is Kea’s gem. Its pretty scramble of narrow alleyways and buildings drapes across two hilltops. Once a substantial settlement of Ancient Greece, it now has a distinctly cosmopolitan feel at weekends.

The bus turnaround is on a square just at the edge of town, from where an archway leads into the labyrinthine village. (Park in the car park below the square.) Beyond the archway, turn right and uphill along Ioulida’s main street for its shops and cafes and to reach the famed Kea Lion.