Introduction

Hora (also known as Mykonos), the island’s well-preserved port and capital, is a warren of narrow alleyways and whitewashed buildings overlooked by the town’s famous windmills. In the heart of the waterfront Little Venice quarter, tiny flower-bedecked churches jostle with glossy boutiques, and there’s a cascade of bougainvillea around every corner. This 'postcard-perfect-but-tasteful-enough-to-avoid-twee' scenario comes at a price: people. High-season streets are crowded with a catwalk cast of thousands eager to browse chic stores, cool galleries, jangling jewellers and both languid and loud music bars.