This solitary fish taverna among the vestiges of Hania’s old tanneries in Halepa, some 2km east of the centre, is one of Crete’s top eateries. Take in the sunset from the superb setting and peruse the changing menu, dictated by the day’s catch. Dishes like squid with crushed fennel and green olives hum with creativity while others (like the melt-in-your-mouth calamari) shine through their transcendent simplicity.