Top choice greek in Gazi, Keramikos & Metaxourgio

Gutsy, fresh food, an open kitchen, earnest service, a handwritten daily menu and David Bowie on the soundtrack: Seychelles may be the Platonic ideal of a restaurant. Dishes can look simple – meaty pan-fried mushrooms with just a sliver of sheep's cheese, say, or greens with fish roe – but the flavour is incomparable. Go early or book ahead; it's deservedly popular.