Gazi's story is a typical contemporary urban one: abandoned industry – here, a former gasworks – is revived by artists and bar owners. A decade passes, the edge becomes the centre, and the transformation continues in surrounding areas. Currently, adjacent Keramikos and Metaxourgio, east of Gazi, are where new scruffy-cool bars, theatres and cafes are popping up, alongside derelict mansions, moped dealerships and Chinese wholesalers. Come to this area at night, certainly, but also by day for the ancient cemetery of Kerameikos, as well as a couple of good museums.