Athens' crown is the Acropolis, and its jewel is the Parthenon. This epic monument soars above the city, and on the hill's southern slopes, a fabulous modern museum holds its treasures. A pedestrian promenade links the two – it's a tourist throughway, but also a favourite spot for locals to enjoy a sundown stroll. And as soon as you turn off this strip, further south, the quiet neighbourhoods of Makrygianni and Koukaki deliver a slice of residential Athens life, with reliable hotels and low-key bars and restaurants.