If you're familiar with any Greek celebrities, you'll have a chance of spotting them in Kolonaki, a wealthy neighbourhood favoured by actors, politicians and journalists who prefer city life to the suburbs. Even if you don't recognise anyone, you can still admire a parade of aristocrats and fashionistas, all focused on the key Kolonaki goals: looking and feeling good.
The extended people-watching coffee session is a Kolonaki pastime. Its historical roots are at Filion, where, to hear some tell it, decades of political schemes have been hatched (especially back when it was called Dolce). Now it's where the neighbourhood's old guard reads the day's paper.
Get an idea of how Kolonaki scenesters decorate their homes at Graffito, a chic homewares shop that also happens to have a cafe specialising in raw vegan desserts.
Learn more secrets of the jet set at Apivita, the boutique for the Greek brand's bee-based cosmetics and other products. A facial at the upstairs spa is a treat.
Filippou is always packed with locals enjoying the renowned home-style fare that this classic taverna has been dishing out since 1923. White-linen-covered tables spill into the courtyard, but book ahead to ensure you get one.
Climb Lykavittos Hill
From the top of Loukianou, a path leads up Kolonaki's hill for panoramas of the city and the Attic basin. Alternatively, take the funicular from the top of Ploutarhou.
Perched on the summit of Lykavittos is the little Chapel of Agios Giorgios, floodlit like a beacon over the city at night. If you're lucky, you'll get there when a wedding is happening.
Super Streetside Dinner
At a pavement table at modern taverna Oikeio, you get the best of both worlds: excellent, affordable home-style cooking and a view on street life, especially as the jet set is heading out and about. Book ahead for dinner, as it always fills up.
Neighbourhood residents who want their dinner cheap and fast, but still stylish, head to Kalamaki Kolonaki for souvlaki.
Retreat to Kolonaki's upper reaches at the cosy Jazz in Jazz, perfect for a last glass of wine or whiskey. Everyone looks gorgeous in the glow of candles glinting off the brass instruments that decorate the walls.