Only 5km north of Lipsi, tiny Arki has rolling hills and secluded, sandy beaches. Away from its only settlement – a little west-coast port also called Arki – the peace and stillness verges on the mystical.

The Church of Metamorfosis stands on a hill behind the settlement, while several sandy coves can be reached along a path skirting the north side of the bay.

Tiganakia Bay, on the southeast coast, has a good sandy beach. To walk there from Arki village, follow the road heading south and then the various goat tracks down to the water. Keep an eye out for dolphins.

Marathi, the largest of Arki’s satellite islets, has a superb sandy beach. The old settlement, with an immaculate little church, stands on a hill above the harbour. While just three people remain on Marathi year-round, local families return each summer to reopen its seasonal tavernas.