Cafes line Plateia Valianou and Lithostroto, and are buzzing by late evening. Bass Club in town draws the younger set, while club-restaurant Katavothres at the tip of the peninsula combines strange geological formations with iconic futuristic furnishings, and puts on top-name DJs. Beach bar Stavento, in Makrys Gialos, hops in summer.

Ionian on the Vine

The Ionian Islands would not be the same without wine, and Kefallonia is especially famed for its vintages. The most notable derive from the unique robola grape (VQRPD; Vin de Qualité Produit dans une Région Déterminée), thought to have been introduced by the Venetians, while other varieties include mavrodaphni (AOC; Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée) and muscat (AOC).

Nestled at the heart of verdant Omala Valley, in the hilly country southeast of Argostoli, the winery of the Robola Cooperative of Kefallonia transforms grapes from 300 independent growers into a dry white wine of subtle yet lively flavour. Visitors can take a self-guided tour and enjoy free tastings. Smaller yet similarly distinguished Gentilini, 5km south of Argostoli on the airport road, has a charming setting and produces a range of superb wines, including the scintillating Classico.