The port-resort village of Skala is crammed with small hotels, apartments, tavernas and cafes, but life, in general, still ticks along gently. A right turn from the quay leads to the small harbour beach and then to a church on a low headland. Beyond lies the best beach on the island, but it disappears beneath sun loungers and broiling bodies in July and August. Turning left from the quay at Skala takes you south along a dirt path through the pine trees to the pebbly and clothing-optional Halikadha Beach.

About 1km west from Skala, Angistri’s other port, Mylos (Megalochori), has an appealing traditional character, rooms and tavernas, but no beach.

Aponissos has turquoise waters, a small offshore island and a reliably tasty taverna. Limenaria has deeper green waters. The island as a whole gets supersleepy in low season.