The port village of Agios Georgios (agh-ios ye-or-yi-os), the island’s primary settlement, holds a few tavernas and simple sugar-cube pensions. The high point of a day is sitting on the harbour beach pondering the turquoise and watching the fishermen roll in with their catches. Spilia Beach, 900m southwest beyond the headland, along a track around the far side of the bay, is quieter and better for swimming. A further 1km walk will bring you to Gaïdouravlakos, a small bay and beach where water from one of the island’s few springs meets the sea.

The tiny hamlet of Megalo Horio is a steep and sweaty 1.5km trek uphill from the harbour, but the effort is rewarded by the stupendous views from the cliff. The village barely stirs until June, and the ideal times to come are for the festivals of Agiou Panteleimonos (26 July), Sotiros (6 August) and Panagias (22 August), when Megalo Horio celebrates with abundant food, music and dancing.

A series of accessible beaches lie within easy walking distance to the east: Tsangari Beach, Tholos Beach, Poros Beach – the only sandy option – and Tholos (Agios Nikolaos) Beach, close to the eponymous church.