For a first-class (albeit waist-expanding) culinary journey around Italy, book a table amid the rustic-industrial charm of this historic laundry. Cooked-to-order antipasti courses are followed by pasta or risotto, a fishy or meaty main, and dessert. Dinner starts at 7.30pm and includes half a bottle of wine, plus water, coffee and digestif. Reservations essential. The entrance is from the courtyard.

The restaurant has been so successful that the owners have opened a smaller à la carte restaurant called Lava in the front building.