With its airy dining room, original look-at-me art, polyglot staff and open kitchen, Grill Royal ticks all the boxes of a chic metropolitan restaurant. A platinum card is a handy accessory if you want to slurp your oysters and tuck into aged prime steaks in the company of A-listers, power politicians, pouty models and ‘trust-afarians’.

Riverside tables beckon in fine weather.