Most villages sit above near-sheer hillsides or nestle down by one of the rivers. There’s a particularly splendid group of old towers, known as Keselo, on the crag at Zemo Omalo, the upper part of Omalo. Shenaqo, a few kilometres east of Omalo, is one of the prettiest villages, with houses of stone, slate and rickety wooden balconies grouped below one of Tusheti’s very few churches. Just outside Diklo, 4km northeast of Shenaqo, the Dzveli Diklo fortress – scene of a heroic last stand against Dagestani invaders in the 19th century – perches on a spectacular rock promontory. Dartlo, 12km northwest of Omalo in the Pirikiti Alazani valley, has another spectacular tower grouping, overlooked by the single tall tower of Kvavlo 350m above.