Tbilisi has a marvellous range of eateries from traditional Georgian to some fabulous fusion affairs. There’s also a great cafe culture.

Tbilisi Food Markets

The upwardly mobile like to shop in the supermarkets that are sprouting all around Georgia, and they tend to think of the traditional market (bazari) as a not-too-hygienic place for older generations. But these are where most of Georgia buys the raw materials of the meals that appear on its tables, and a visit to one of them tells you a lot about what makes Georgia tick. The quantities of varied, colourful produce, most of it freshly arrived from the countryside, are a feast for the eyes – piles of great round cheeses, sacks of different-coloured beans, entire counters of walnuts, little mounds of colourful spices, bowls of pickles, rows of plucked chickens, homemade sauces in recycled bottles, big bunches of herbs and greens, piles of shiny fish, tubs of honey, every kind of fruit and vegetable that's in season, and of course plenty of wine.

Markets Outside the Centre

There's a big daily market outside Akhmetelis Teatri metro station in the far north of the city, and what are called markets, but are really collections of small shops and pavement-clogging street stalls, outside other metro stations such as Didube (where they're jumbled up with the city's main marshrutka terminal), Samgori and Ghrmaghele. These too work every day but are quieter on Sundays.