Any chunk of the coastal route between Haavei Bay to the west and Hokatu to the east offers views over jagged volcanic spires and steel-colored seas. For other walks, a guide is essential because the trails are unmarked. Ask at your pension for a guide; the usual cost is about 5000 CFP, picnic included.

Horse Riding

A fantastic ride is from Vaipaee to Hane, passing the arboretum, airport and windswept plateaus before reaching the coastal road, which plunges down towards Hane. If you want to explore the interior and reach a secluded archaeological site, then nothing beats the ride from Hane to the Vaikivi petroglyphs.

Horse-riding trips can be organised through your pension. A ride typically costs 6000 CFP for a half-day or 10,000 CFP for a full day, including a guide.