From Hane, it’s a three-hour walk inland to the Vaikivi petroglyphs. A steep path wiggles up to the edge of the caldera, from which you’ll get cardiac-arresting views of Hane Bay (plan on one hour from Hane). You can save this section by getting there by 4WD from Vaipaee. Then it’s another two hours or so, well inland, amid a variety of landscapes – from thick vegetation to tree ferns and a dramatic finish of hacking through pandanus.