This impossibly scenic bay, fringed with a pristine stretch of white-sand beach and backed by a lovely coconut grove, is accessible only on foot or by boat. From Hanaiapa, it’s a fairly easy 90-minute walk, although the path is not marked. Ask locals to show you the trailhead. After an ascent of about 20 minutes, you’ll reach the Hanahaoe Pass (159m), from where there are superb views in all directions. From here the path veers due south along a ridge (don’t take the path that descends into a small valley to the east). Some 45 minutes of relatively easy walking after leaving the pass, the bay of Hanatekuua comes into view – a fantastic sight. From here it’s less than 30 minutes, downhill all the way, to the beach. Enjoy!
The Smiling Tiki
Hiva Oa’s most bizarre statue, the Smiling Tiki, can be found near the road to the airport, about 10km from Atuona. About 1m in height, it stands alone in a clearing. Its two clearly outlined eyes resemble big glasses, and its curved lips suggest a smile – it looks like a friendly critter that almost inspires a hug. To find it (no sign), ask your hosts to draw you a map or ask for the little sketch map that’s sold at the tourist office (it’s surprisingly reliable).