Getting There & Away
Fatu Hiva is the most difficult island to get to in the Marquesas, but sorting out transport is manageable if you’re flexible. In Hiva Oa, find out if boat charters to Fatu Hiva are being organised during your stay and you may be able to share the costs. There’s no regular service; it all depends on the needs of locals (for instance, going back to Fatu Hiva after medical consultation in Atuona). Another option is to hop on the Aranui cargo ship when it stops at Atuona, Omoa or Hanavave, although they are getting increasingly sticky about hop-on passangers. If you’ve got the dough, you can charter a private bonitier (about 50,000 CFP for the whole boat). Also contact Lionel at Chez Lionel Cantois, who’s well clued up on the subject. The crossing between Hiva Oa and Fatu Hiva takes anything between three and five hours depending on conditions and can be very uncomfortable if the sea is choppy.
The only dirt road is 17km long and links Hanavave with Omoa, but it’s quicker (and cheaper) to hire a speedboat to travel between the two villages (about 7000 CFP per boat).
Enquire at your pension about hiring a 4WD; expect to pay 15,000 CFP a day with driver.