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The best way to get to Reims (€15, 2¼ hours, up to 13 daily), without a change in Paris, is by taking bus line 140 with Courriers de l’Aube ( Departures are from the very last bus berth to the right as you approach the train station; a schedule is posted. The bus station office is in the side of the train station.


There’s a huge free car park a couple of blocks south of the old town on bd Charles Délestraint – take rue de Turenne, cross the roundabout, turn right and then left. Even closer to the centre is the free car park on place de la Tour, a couple of blocks north of the cathedral. Close to the train station, Europcar rents cars.


Troyes is on the rather isolated train line that links Mulhouse (€56 to €115, four to six hours, 13 daily) in Alsace with Paris Gare de l’Est (€11 to €28, 1½ hours, 10 to 14 daily). To get to Dijon (€25 to €35, two to four hours), change in Culmont or St-Florentin-Vergigny.