Begin in Toulouse’s grandest square, place du Capitole. Swing through the nearby tourist office for maps or a Pass Tourisme Toulouse card, then stroll north to Basilique St-Sernin, Toulouse’s pink-flushed Romanesque masterpiece. If time permits, pop into Musée St-Raymond for local antiquities. Otherwise, head southeast for an early lunch at a no-frills restaurant above Marché Victor Hugo (arrive before noon, as tables get snapped up quickly).
After lunch, walk south to the fine-arts Musée des Augustins, housed in a former monastery. Stroll north from the museum to people-watch over tea and cake in Flower's Cafe, or jump-start your evening with rounds of wine in rustic Au Père Louis.
On day two, jump aboard a boat cruise. After bobbing on the water and admiring views of Pont Neuf, walk east to the Fondation Bemberg, a sublime museum housed in a hôtel particulier (private mansion). Pause for a light lunch in nearby La Reine Margot before ambling past rue Clémence Isaure’s vintage clothing stores and bookshops. Wend north to the Couvent des Jacobins, whose elegant church and cloisters tap into 800 years of Toulouse history. Finish at place St-Pierre for nibbles and drinks at waterside bars like La Couleur de la Culotte.