Introduction

Ravishing St-Rémy is about as cultured and chi-chi as Provence gets, and yet somehow – and in stark contrast to some of the flashier coastal towns (St-Tropez, we're looking at you) – it's managed to cling on to its heart and soul during the gentrification process. Built from honey-coloured stone, and centred on a lovely, plane-shaded square lined by cafes, St-Rémy is a favourite summer haunt of the jet-set – and yet, even in midsummer, it's possible to find pockets of peace and quiet along the streets of the old town.

South of town, the rugged hills of Les Alpilles rise along the horizon, and one of Provence's most impressive Roman ruins can be explored – the incredibly well-preserved ancient town of Glanum.