St-Émilion is peppered with pricey but average places to eat, albeit with highly atmospheric summer terraces: ample options fill rue de la Porte Bouqueyre and place du Marché. Lamproie à la Bordelaise – a type of river eel, sometimes nicknamed 'vampires of the seas' – is the local dish to try, around since the Middle Ages.

Self-catering

A tiny food market, with just a handful of stalls, sets up on place de la Porte Bouqueyre each Wednesday and Sunday morning.