From the gorgeous ‘Petit Rétro’ emblazoned on the zinc bar to the ceramic, floral art-nouveau tiles on the wall, this 1904-opened old-style bistro is now a historic monument. Fare prepared using seasonal ingredients is classic French: for example, blood sausage, blanquette de veau (veal in a butter and cream sauce) and oreilles de cochon (pig's ears). Delicious.

Coffee is still made in its early-20th-century Victorian coffee machine.