The former staff dining room of the city's winter circus, the 1852-built Cirque d’Hiver, is a historic monument with colourful clown-themed ceramics and mosaics, painted glass ceilings and its original zinc bar. Fabulous modern French cuisine spans scallops with smoked rosemary ricotta to Mesquer pigeon, smoked eel with pear and mushrooms and sautéed veal's brains, accompanied by excellent natural wines.

The pavement terrace gets packed out on sunny days. If you don't snag a lunch or dinner reservation, return between mealtimes to admire the decor while you enjoy an early morning café with regulars or a glass of vin naturel.