Le Chateaubriand is an elegantly tiled, art deco dining room with strikingly imaginative cuisine. Basque chef Iñaki Aizpitarte is well travelled and his dishes display global exposure again and again in their unexpected combinations (watermelon and mackerel, milk-fed veal with langoustines and truffles). Reservations 21 days in advance are essential; if you don't have one, try your luck but only after 9.30pm.