Brass plaques tell you exactly where Hemingway (who wrote much of The Sun Also Rises here) and luminaries like Picasso, Apollinaire, Man Ray, Jean-Paul Sartre and Samuel Beckett stood, sat or fell at the ‘Lilac Enclosure’ (opened 1847). It's split into a late-night piano bar, upmarket restaurant and more lovable (and cheaper) brasserie with a hedged-in pavement terrace.