OK, it might look like Hollywood’s idea of an Indonesian restaurant with all those Balinese handicrafts adorning the walls, but this is the real thing, run by the progeny of an Indonesian diplomat exiled when President Sukarno was overthrown in 1967.

If you think you can handle it, order one of four rijstafels (Dutch for ‘rice table’) – a seemingly endless feast of seven to 10 courses. Those with nut allergies beware: peanuts appear in many dishes.