in Le Marais, Ménilmontant & Belleville

Play table tennis, sit on the side of the bed, glass of Champers in hand, or lounge between bookcases at this apartment-style restaurant in a beautiful courtyard (idyllic for lunch in the sunshine). Chilled vibe aside, Derrière (‘behind’) is deadly serious in the kitchen. Classic French bistro dishes and more inventive creations are excellent, as is Sunday's buffet brunch.