This is Paris as your grandmother knew it: chequered red-and-white napkins, faded photographs on the walls, old red banquettes and traditional French dishes that could well make your hair curl: pig trotters, andouillette (a fiesty tripe sausage), tête de veau et cervelle (calf head and brains) and the like. Less offal: a steaming bowl of pot au feu (beef stew).