Push your way in, order a kir from the jam-packed bar while you wait for a table, and revel in the buzz of this busy spot. The cuisine is as close as you'll get to Provençal in Paris, with all the southern classics like brandade de morue (salt-cod purée with potatoes), ratatouille and lavender-scented crème brûlée.

It also offers 80 different pastis types. And it is not recommended for the claustrophobic (unless it's summer and you succeed in nabbing a seat on the terrace).