in Le Marais, Ménilmontant & Belleville

Brutos' stripped-back brick and stone dining room is softened by marine-coloured banquettes, ceramic-topped tables and framed illustrations on the walls. At the rear, the semi-open kitchen has an Argentinian parrilla (charcoal grill). Standout dishes include Cervelas de Lyon (pork, pistachio and truffle sausage), duck hearts with white peaches, and sea bass with fennel and courgette, as well as aged steaks.