Western Paris' culinary scene evolves slowly, but once you cross over that invisible border somewhere in the middle of the 9th arrondissement, it’s a different world, with a constant flurry of new openings in south Pigalle, along Canal St-Martin and in the cosmopolitan 10e west of place de la République: young chefs here head up some of the most exciting dining venues in Paris today. Rues commerçantes (shopping streets) where food stalls set up on the pavement outside shops include rue des Martyrs and, in the 17e, rue Poncelet.

Rue des Martyrs

Stretching 960m from Montmartre in the 18e (metro Abbesses) to the 9e (metro Notre Dame de Lorette) in the Grands Boulevards neighbourhood, sloping rue des Martyrs is a foodie's fantasyland, lined with gourmet shops (cheese, tea, wine, jam and more), award-winning boulangeries (bakeries) and patisseries (pastry shops), including specialists such as one solely devoted to madeleine cakes. Interspersed between them are Parisian bistros and regional and international eateries (Corsican, Portuguese, Spanish, Greek...). Down the southern end, grocers, fishmongers, butchers et al set up pavement stalls. From late 2018, 300m between rue de Navarin and rue St-Lazare will prioritise pedestrians.