Introduction

Looking at this neighbourhood today, you’d never guess it was a swampy backwater until the 18th century. Unlike Marseille to the west and Genoa to east, Nice never had a natural harbour suitable for large-scale commerce, so until the castle came toppling down in 1706, this city was a military stronghold, not a port.

Fast forward three centuries and everything’s changed. The port is packed with passengers bound for Corsica, Cannes and Monaco, while the streets around place Garibaldi have become Nice's trendiest neighbourhood, buzzing with restaurants, shops and nightlife.