Cafe terraces on cours Saleya are lovely for an early-evening aperitif. Vieux Nice’s bounty of pubs attracts a noisy, boisterous crowd; most bars have a happy hour from 6pm to 8pm. The trendy area to drink these days is Le Petit Marais in the Port Lympia area, where a clutch of new bars and bistros have opened up.

Le Petit Marais

Parisians might scoff at the idea, but Le Petit Marais in Nice is nicknamed after the trendy Marais district in Paris for good reason. The Niçois quartier – the area of town wedged between place Garibaldi and Port Lympia – buzzes with happening eating, drinking and boutique shopping addresses, firmly off the tourist radar but in the address book of every trendy local. Stroll the lengths of rue Bonaparte, rue Bavestro, rue Lascaris and surrounding streets to catch the city’s latest hot new opening.