Within the one-time LU biscuit factory (crowned by an iconic angel-sculpted, domed tower, which you can ascend for €2), this industrial-chic lieu unique (unique place) is a cutting-edge venue for dance and theatre, eclectic and electronic music, philosophical sessions and art exhibitions. It's also a buzzing cafe-bar and restaurant (mains €8 to €12). Deckchairs lounge by the water in summer.

A decadent hammam (Turkish bath) complex in the basement tops off the edgy ensemble. From the quayside, walk around the building onto rue de la Biscuiterie to admire Le Grenier du Siècle, a treasure trove of tin boxes built into the wall. The tins, sealed on 31 December 1999, contain 12,000 different objects contributed by the city's inhabitants in a nod to local history. They will only be opened on 1 January 2100.