It doesn’t get more Gallic than this – chalkboard menus, wooden floors, vintage signs, wonky tables and whip-smart waiters. Soak up the atmosphere over a plate of steak-frites (steak and chips) with pepper sauce, or a saucepan of steaming mussels, accompanied by a cheap glass of plonk – you’ll have to supply your own Gauloises, beret and world-weary ennui.