The Vieux Port and surrounding pedestrian streets teem with cafe terraces, but choose carefully (some rely on tourists to pay too much for average food). For world cuisine, try cours Julien and nearby rue des Trois Mages. For pizza, roast chicken, and Middle Eastern food under €10, nose around the streets surrounding Marché des Capucins.

Bouillabaisse

Originally cooked by fisherfolk from the scraps of their catch, bouillabaisse is Marseille’s signature dish. True bouillabaisse includes at least four kinds of fish, and sometimes shellfish. Don’t trust tourist traps that promise cheap bouillabaisse; the real deal costs at least €50 per person. It’s served in two parts: the soupe de poisson (broth), rich with tomato, saffron and fennel; and the cooked fish, de-boned tableside and presented on a platter. On the side are croutons, rouille (a bread-thickened garlic-chilli mayonnaise) and grated cheese, usually Gruyère. Spread rouille on the crouton, top with cheese and float it in the soup. Be prepared for a huge meal and tons of garlic.