Loches, on the Indre River, spirals picturesquely up from the modern town – through ancient stone gates – to the citadel, a forbidding medieval stronghold established by Foulques Nerra in the 10th century and later updated by Charles VII. In 1429 Joan of Arc met with Charles VII here and persuaded him to march north to claim the French crown. These days Loches is a sleepy place, great for a day of mellow exploration. The town is known for its bustling open-air food market.
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