Introduction

An old Breton saying captures raw wildness of Île d'Ouessant: 'Qui voit Molène, voit sa peine, qui voit Ouessant, voit son sang' ('Those who see Molène, see their sorrow, those who see Ouessant, see their blood'). On a stormy winter day there's a palpable end-of-the-world feeling to the island (known as Enez Eusa in Breton, meaning 'Island of Terror', and Ushant in English). However, if you come on a sunny day, the place can seem like a little paradise, with turquoise waters, abundant wildflowers and not much to do but walk and picnic. The peace and calm of the island is best experienced by hiking its 45km craggy coastal path or hiring a bike and cycling. While Ouessant can be visited as a day trip (as masses of people do), spend the night to fully allow its other-worldly nature to truly sink in.