Grenoble has a wide selection of excellent restaurants featuring cuisines from the Alps, France and beyond. Some of the most atmospheric places are hidden down the backstreets of the Quartier des Antiquaires (around rue Auguste Gaché). Pizzerias crowd quai Perrière, right across the river from the lift up to Fort de la Bastille. North African cuisine is widespread, look south of the river on rue de Lionne and rue Chenoise.

Gratin Dauphinois

As the one-time capital of Dauphiné, Grenoble is the place to sample gratin dauphinois. The original recipe calls for finely sliced potatoes oven-baked in milk, cream and butter, with a sprinkling of salt, pepper and garlic. A pinch of nutmeg or cayenne is widespread, depending on the chef's taste, though further alterations would be frowned on (and adding cheese is heresy).