Place de l’Horloge is crammed with touristy restaurants that don’t offer the best cuisine or value in town. Delve instead into the pedestrian old city where ample pretty squares tempt: place des Châtaignes and place de la Principle are two particularly beautiful restaurant-clad squares.

Restaurants open seven days during the summer festival season, when reservations become essential. At other times of year many are closed at least two days a week.