These small, delightful twin villages have their own little patch of pebbly beach. Poles were just going up to supply the area with electricity when we passed. The Methodist village church (1918) is made of coral cooked in a lovo (a pit oven). A tabua (whale’s tooth) hangs by the side of the altar; it was presented to the village by the first missionaries to come here. There is one place to stay, run by the enterprising Seru, who also organises regular tours from Levuka.