Lahemaa's shady backroads are perfect for cyclists and many of the park's accommodation providers have bikes to rent (around €10 per day), including Lepispea Caravan & Camping, Merekalda, Sagadi Manor, Toomarahva Turismitalu and Uustula B&B.
The best off-road route is the 11.6km Käsmu Cycling Trail, which is mainly a loop with a couple of lenghty side tracks. Starting at the end of the road in Käsmu it heads through the forest to the Matsikivi erratic boulder then continues to the tip of the peninsula, down to Lake Käsmu and pops out back in the village, near the church. You can download a map from the Lahemaa section of www.loodusegakoos.ee.
City Bike coordinates self-guided day tours in the park from Tallinn (from €29, not including train to and from Kadrina), including bike hire.
Some excellent hikes course through the park’s diverse landscapes. Pick up maps and trail information from the visitor centre.
The Oandu Old-Growth Forest Nature Trail is a 4.7km circular trail, 3km north of Sagadi, that is perhaps the park’s most interesting. Note the trees that wild boars and bears have scratched, bark eaten by irascible elk and pines scarred from resin-tapping.
Between Oandu and Altja is the Beaver Trail (Koprarada), a beautiful 1km walkway which passes beaver dams on the Altja River, although you’re unlikely to see the shy, nocturnal creatures themselves.
The Viru Bog Nature Trail is a 3.5km trail across the Viru Bog, starting at the first kilometre off the road to Loksa (near Kolga), off the Tallinn–Narva highway; look for the insectivorous sundew (Venus flytrap, Charles Darwin’s favourite plant).
The 7km Majakivi Nature Trail starts on the Loksa–Leesi road, near the charmingly old-fashioned coastal village of Virve, and takes in 7m-high Majakivi (House Boulder); at 584 cubic metres, it’s Lahemaa’s largest erratic boulder.