Welcome to Ilfracombe
If there's anywhere that sums up the faded grandeur of the British seaside, it's surely Ilfracombe. Framed by precipitous cliffs, elegant townhouses, golf greens and a promenade strung with twinkling lights, it's a place that might seem pickled in a bygone age. But look beneath the surface and you'll find there's another side to Ilfracombe – it's a favourite hang-out for the artist Damien Hirst, who's added a controversial statue to the seafront, and it's now home to some top-notch eateries. Ilfracombe more than deserves a look.