Taking its name from two Cornish words – penn (headland) and wydh (end) – Penwith juts like a crooked finger into the wild waters of the Atlantic, stretching from St Ives to the most westerly point on the British mainland at Land’s End. Wild and remote, spotted with mine stacks, ancient farmland and windswept moor, this is a truly wild corner of Cornwall, and feels a long way from the county's pretty harbour towns and neatly kept beaches.
The twisting B3306 coast road is a rollercoaster, winding through a panorama of granite-strewn moorland and patchwork fields, some of which date back to medieval times. Craggy tors and auburn heaths dominate the horizon, and broken cliffs tumble down into booming surf. It’s scarcely populated now, but during Neolithic times this empty landscape was home to a string of ancient settlements, the remains of which can still be seen scattered among the granite rocks.