'Indian cuisine with a difference' might sound like hyperbole but it's a fact: 'Gateway to the Indies' serves the food of Pondicherry (now Puducherry), a French colony on the southeast coast of India until 1962. Gallic-inspired dishes include kari de mouton (actually a goat curry) and magret de canard pulivaar (Barbary duck breast fillets with tamarind).

The decor is a riot of colour and kitsch that works. If you really can't make up your mind, order a thali (from £25), a tray with a selection of the best Franco-Indian dishes, either meat-based or vegetarian.