Andrew Edmunds

British in The West End

This charismatic little restaurant, operating from the same Georgian townhouse since 1985, is exactly the sort you might wish still abounded in Soho. Offering two floors of wood-panelled bohemia, and a handwritten menu of Modern British cooking (such as cold roast sirloin with salsify dressing or warm ox tongue with gem lettuce and mustard), it's enduringly popular so reservations are essential.

The excellent wine list offers plenty of enticing bargains.