Start day one at one of the city’s period cafes and then get a taste of the past at the excellent Alexandria National Museum. Next, stop for lunch at the bustling Mohammed Ahmed, the king of fuul (fava bean paste) and falafel. Having gained a sense of the city’s history, explore its future at the iconic Bibliotheca Alexandrina. When you're done, head across the street to Selsela Cafe for some tea as the waves of the bay roll in alongside. Hop onto a microbus along the Corniche all the way down to Fort Qaitbey, a scenic spot for sunset. Have a drink and dinner at the Greek Club, which offers fish and panoramic views over the bay.
On day two stop off for breakfast at Delices, then head to Kom Al Dikka and the Catacombs of Kom Ash Shuqqafa. Have lunch at one of the trendy restaurants at L Passage. After lunch take the tram to the delightful Mahmoud Said Museum, followed by the little-visited Museum of Modern Art in Muharram Bey. Alternatively, head for a beach along the shore to the east. For dinner try the atmospheric Teatro Eskandariya, and finish with a beer at the old-style bar Cap d’Or.
On the third day add a day trip to Rosetta and the mouth of the Nile. The day after, head to El Alamein and spend the afternoon on the beach in Sidi Abdel Rahman.