One of the great dining pleasures here is tucking into the day's fresh catch in one of the seafood restaurants overlooking the Eastern Harbour. The city's culinary scene has been changed by Syrian refugees who have opened popular shawarma stalls along the Corniche.

Note that many restaurants don't serve alcohol. For a beer with your meal, you'll have to head to one of the luxury hotels or upmarket restaurants.

Anfushi

For some authentic Alexandrian flavour and atmosphere, head for the simple, good-value streetside restaurants in Anfushi. Sharia Safar Pasha is lined with a dozen places where fires crackle and flame under the grills barbecuing meat and fish. You could chance a table at any of them and probably come away satisfied. Don’t hesitate to bring the kids to any of the places we recommend; most are filled with families. All are open well past midnight.